kathy bagioni

Color outside the lines . . .

Learn to use your serger

Written By: kathybagioni - May• 09•12

A serger is great machine to give ready to wear (RTW) finishes to garments you design and make yourself.    It takes some getting used to in the beginning because it is set up just a bit differently than the sewing machine you already use.    No bobbins, just loopers.   Two needles at a time.   OMG

Did you know that the serger was a product of the The MerrowMachine Company around 1893?  The company originally produced gunpowder but switched to knitting and sewing machines and merrow machines (what we now call sergers) by the end of the 19th century.   The machines were originally manufactured in Merrow, CT, a part of Mansfield, but later manufacturing moved to Hartford, CT.   Ironically, what used to be Merrow, CT is only ten miles from where I sit as I write this.   The company continues to produce machines for the textile industry but is now based in Fall River, MA.

The merrow machine was originally designed to produce crochet-like edgings around the tops of socks but its  seaming/trimming abilities soon found more applications  in the growing textile industry.

At first glance a serger doesn’t look anything like the sewing machine you are used to using.

But don’t despair.

Repeat after me.

It. . . is. . . just. . . a. . . machine.    And machines are logical and can be learned.

Honest.

When I got my first serger I was terrified.   I tell my students that every time I had to thread it I broke out into a cold sweat.   Truly.   My hands shook and I was convinced I would thread it incorrectly.    I learned.   Most of the time I did just fine.   And when I didn’t thread it properly I backtracked and found out where the problem was . . . and corrected it.

Now I am teaching “Lessons on Your Serger” again at Close to Home in Glastonbury, CT.    One three hour class on Sunday, May 20th will give you a basic overview of the machine and what you can accomplish with it.

So if you’re tired of breaking out in a cold sweat, join us.   I promise to give you tips and hints that will have you serging up a storm in no time.

Honest.

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Pressing cloth

Written By: kathybagioni - Mar• 19•12

A pressing cloth is a bit of fabric that goes under the iron when pressing to prevent heat damage to the garment or other item being pressed.

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You can buy pressing cloths or use scraps of fabric to make your  own.  I prefer natural fibers, cotton, linen, or lightweight wool.  I find that polyester or very thin fabrics are no better than no pressing cloth at all.  The purpose of the cloth is to absorb direct steam and heat and distribute it more gently over the surface you are pressing.   It helps minimize shine and impressions left by the iron on susceptible fabrics.

There is an art to pressing items well and using a pressing cloth helps to give good results.

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Stitch in the ditch

Written By: kathybagioni - Mar• 12•12

Stitching in the Ditch is a method of stitching on the outside of the garment through all layers in the groove or ditch of the seam.

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By stitching in the seam or as close as possible to the seam it is possible to secure waistbands, facings and bindings to a garment neatly.  The stitching holds down the layers without adding bulk.

In quilting stitching in the ditch is a method of machine quilting that provides the stability of quilting the layers together without adding a quilting line to distract from the design.  Often it is used as the first step in machine quilting because it stabilizes the quilt invisibly.

Special feet for the sewing machine make this process easier.   Look for a foot with a metal guides that will help the needle stay centered in the seam line.

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Starch or spray starch

Written By: kathybagioni - Mar• 08•12

Starch/spray starch is a vegetable product that increases the stiffness of fabric when applied.  It is intended that the fabric then be ironed flat.   Earlier forms of starch products needed to be boiled and cooled before applying to clean fabric.   Now it is available in spray cans to be more easily applied to the cloth while ironing.

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WARNING:   Avoid scorching.   Starched fabrics scorch more easily.

Remember to test an area of fabric with starch before using in the actual project.   Some fabrics will permanently stain with application of starch products.

Fabrics stiffened with starch makes piecing and applique much easier.

Starch your fabric to make cutting in die-cutting machines neater.   The stiff fabric cuts more like paper with cleaner edges.

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Looper

Written By: kathybagioni - Mar• 06•12

A looper is the part of the merrow machine or serger that replaces conventional bobbins.   One or two loopers form thread loops that the needles pass through to complete the stitch.

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A standard sewing machine, a lockstitching machine, uses a bobbin and top thread to complete the stitch.   The serger, or merrow machine,  uses top thread(s) and bottom looper(s) to complete the stitch.  Thread specially developed for the high speed of the serger machine works best in the loopers.  Some machines also afford the use of larger, non-traditional threads in the loopers for decorative effects.

 

 

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Weft

Written By: kathybagioni - Mar• 01•12

The weft is the crosswise threads that run perpendicular to the lengthwise

grain.  These threads run  at 90° angles to the length of woven fabrics (or the width).  Also known as the cross grain. It has little to no stretch and is usually 45° from the bias. (see also, warp and grain)

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When cutting a pattern it is best to orient the pattern pieces so the crosswise grain runs around the body unless there is a specific reason for not doing so, such as, matching patterns or directional fabrics or taking advantage of bias.   The slight stretch (depending on fiber content) gives some ease when wearing.

Some fabrics have different fibers for warp and weft making an interesting play of texture in the fabric.

Silk dupioni often has different colors in the warp and weft.   This makes for an iridescent quality in this luxurious fabric.   Changes in direction and light can appear to change the actual color of the fabric.

Homespun plaids have different colors in the warp and weft in a pattern mimicking earlier methods of weaving.

 

 

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Warp

Written By: kathybagioni - Jan• 20•12

The warp is the lengthwise grain that runs the length of woven fabric.   This is parallel to the edges or selvage of the fabric and perpendicular to the filler threads or weft threads. The warp threads run in the direction of the lengthwise grain and have little to no stretch.  (See also grain and weft)

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When cutting a pattern it is best to orient the pattern pieces so the lengthwise grain runs up and down the body unless there is a specific reason for not doing so, such as, matching patterns or directional fabrics or taking advantage of bias.   This will give the most stability because most garments hang from the shoulders.

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Needle board

Written By: kathybagioni - Jan• 18•12

A needle board is a tool to assist in pressing fabrics with a pile that is easily crushed, such as velvet.  Originally made of rows of fine needles anchored in a board or heavy canvas, hence the name, needle board but now they can be made of artificial, heat resistant materials.

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Place the item to be pressed face down on the needle board and press with steam on the back side.  Allow to cool before moving.

I bought my needle board at a tag sale years ago for 25 cents.   I don’t press much velvet but I have used  it to press felted wool applique pieces.   It allowed the piece to be pressed flat while keeping the 3-dimensional character of the thick applique pieces.

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Thimbles

Written By: kathybagioni - Jan• 16•12

A thimble is a protective cover worn on the finger to aid in pushing the needle while hand-sewing.  Thimbles of one sort or another have been in use for thousands of years.   They range from strictly utilitarian to extravagantly decorative.

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Colorfast(ness)

Written By: kathybagioni - Jan• 13•12

Colorfastness refers to the tendency of fabric, usually in clothing items, to hold its color.   Tests for colorfastness include subjecting the fabric to light, washing with cleaning products, and rubbing.  If a fabric is not deemed colorfast, or if the information is not available,  it is recommended that it be washed/dry cleaned with like colors or alone until color loss is reduced.   There are some products on the market, one is called “Retayne” that aids in binding dye particles in the fabric to minimize color loss.  (See also, bleeding and crocking)

 

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The old rule from my 7th grade Home Ec teacher still stands.   Treat the fabric BEFORE making a garment/project exactly the way you will AFTER it is completed.  If it will be laundered, wash it before.  If it will be dry cleaned, ditto.   Avoid unpleasant surprises and possibly ruining something you have worked hard on.

Do I wash fabrics I plan to use in my art pieces or collages?   Generally not, with the exception of batiks.   They hold a lot of dye and sometimes this can migrate to fabrics they touch in the hot, humid summers in CT.

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